Firewoodn equipments

When we took the bearing off and i cleaned it i noticed it missing a few bearings
So i had my buddy that has a bearing store try to find me a new "slewing" bearing for the buncher head.
Not sure how much effort was done but they couldn't find me one,but they were unsuccessful.
So i took it apart and found bits of bearing and about 5 balls and spacers gone,it was slowly eating itself.
I was able to get replacement balls,but no spacers despite them having a part number on them,a few show signs of being next up for consumption.SB chunks.jpgSB cup part number.jpgSB bad cups.jpg
 
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So i have to make them,i got some hard nylon from a machine shop in Whitehorse which i turned down to the same size
Then i take an old dirty cup and make the outside ring for reference
With a die grinder and a carbide tip that is round on the end i start carving it out.
I measure the depth in the center till its the same as the original,then get the outer ring established.
Then i take a rusty ball and test fit,taking off the rust colored high spots till i get a decent cup.
Considering the condition of the races i am being to anal.SB bad cups.jpgSB rod2.jpgSB rod.jpgSB parts.jpg
 
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There was only one grease zerk i am going to try and drill in another in the plug that you pull out to remove the balls.
Anyone have a recommendation for a good high impact grease?
The bearing does not move much,the issue was with only one grease zerk it was doomed from the start in 85.
The bottom of the bearing has substantial rust pits,same as the inner race.
I am going to but the bad spots opposite each other and at 3 and 9 o clock
 
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Is there a Motion bearings in Whitehorse? I would be amazed if they couldn't find you those bits and pieces. Hi impact grease, no I've had good and bad luck both with highly recommended grease. I really believe it totally depends on application. I did find and use a really good hi temperature grease, Wurth sig 3000. Only thing that would stay in some of the bearings at the asphalt plant, impossible to pump below 20 degrees C though and pricey
 
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thomas1 said:
I’ve read to use high moly grease for non-rotating applications. Pins, bushings, sliding surfaces, etc. I got some Mobil stuff from the local Cat dealer. Lack of grease is probably worse than improper grease.
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Take it up with Bwalker. Maybe we could start a grease thread. I'll tell you what I know for sure and it ain't much . I used Castrol grease at the shop, I was paying 4.88 a tube for just regular general purpose grease, buying 200 tubes at a time. I thought I'd switch to some better stuff with more moly, so I did. The operators complained almost instantly that it wouldn't stay in place and was hard to pump in the cold.so I went back to the cheaper stuff. Cheap grease is a fuck of a lot better than no grease
 
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DSS said:
Is there a Motion bearings in Whitehorse? I would be amazed if they couldn't find you those bits and pieces. Hi impact grease, no I've had good and bad luck both with highly recommended grease. I really believe it totally depends on application. I did find and use a really good hi temperature grease, Wurth sig 3000. Only thing that would stay in some of the bearings at the asphalt plant, impossible to pump below 20 degrees C though and pricey
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No Motion bearing...
But thanks for the tip i will try them
 
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DSS said:
Take it up with Bwalker. Maybe we could start a grease thread. I'll tell you what I know for sure and it ain't much . I used Castrol grease at the shop, I was paying 4.88 a tube for just regular general purpose grease, buying 200 tubes at a time. I thought I'd switch to some better stuff with more moly, so I did. The operators complained almost instantly that it wouldn't stay in place and was hard to pump in the cold.so I went back to the cheaper stuff. Cheap grease is a fuck of a lot better than no grease
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I dated a girl like that.
 
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DSS said:
Take it up with Bwalker. Maybe we could start a grease thread. I'll tell you what I know for sure and it ain't much . I used Castrol grease at the shop, I was paying 4.88 a tube for just regular general purpose grease, buying 200 tubes at a time. I thought I'd switch to some better stuff with more moly, so I did. The operators complained almost instantly that it wouldn't stay in place and was hard to pump in the cold.so I went back to the cheaper stuff. Cheap grease is a fuck of a lot better than no grease
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agreed. i dont feel we under grease using mid priced grease as bad as we likely would using high priced grease we couldnt afford to use weekly. so yeah, any grease is better than none. i think yukon's machine if i read right, dont turn round and round, but is a very large surface, so with one fitting it never really got fully greased. pins and bushings cant be over greased, just pump it till it comes out every week. pro tip, your purging the dirt and grit that way.
 
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Genius said:
Cheap corn head grease from your local AG dealer FTW.




Just not your local Deere dealer who wants $20 a tube for what should be well under $5
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Cat had grease on for like 75% off a while back. I forget how much I paid. It looked like and sounded like it should have been good grease. Worst stuff I ever seen. I can't believe people buy it. Snot off a roosters lip would be better
 
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Yukon Stihl said:
Going to Whitehorse today and going to see if the machine shop will drill and tap me a few more zerks in the outer ring.
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With Risley being good luck on the bearing unless you know of where there’s a salvage place for forestry equipment. The older Fabtek 4 rollers had a bearing like that with 6 grease ports you’d grease and rotate daily.
 
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This bearing only moves about 30 degrees total
The number on the bearing is a good one,wasn't made specifically for Risley
Probably one sitting in a bearing clearing house of NOS bearings
With my repairs and added grease zerks this one will probably outlast my use of the machine.
It will be in semi retirement just like all my vintage iron.
Still would be nice to find a new one.Teeth are easy to find for it,unlike Arkinsaw.
Need to find a source for the drive belt and the Risley should be good. Otherwise a different hotsaw will be found.
 
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We use shell gadus, or certified labs 5% moly grease on all our equipment. Except anything that is high speed. Moly grease will eventually harden. Wheel bearings ect get actual bearing grease. The certified stuff is damn good grease but it doesn’t pump for shit when it’s cold. Even with the Milwaukee cordless grease guns
 
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