Tim’s payloader and generator BS thread
- Thread starter Cbird
- Start date
Rode with Randy the Mower Man, yesterday.
We loaded up a Yamaha "Classic" onto the trailer and found our way down to the back roads of Franklin county.
Was a hillbilly had a 5252 Cub Cadet sub compact mower in good shape. 400 hours on the clock.
was an even trade.
although the Cub is an MTD, it seems like a solid lil' tractor, for a home owner.
We loaded up a Yamaha "Classic" onto the trailer and found our way down to the back roads of Franklin county.
Was a hillbilly had a 5252 Cub Cadet sub compact mower in good shape. 400 hours on the clock.
was an even trade.
although the Cub is an MTD, it seems like a solid lil' tractor, for a home owner.
Thank you to you and your friend in Germany for checking out the background on the ZF parts seller. Getting swindled on parts would have compounded my problems.
Yea it sucks to compound an issue, especially with tossing coin away!
Parts from Germany are tracking to arrive Monday.
While checking oil in the other hubs, I noticed the inside suface of the fill plug was scored up on the hub opposite that I'm working on. I pulled it apart to inspect. It is ok. The ring gear bolts are not original. It must have had a prior failure.
I went fishing with a magnet for chunks on that side, thinking they may have missed them when repairing. I got 1 pretty big chunk and a fair amount of filings.
I'm gonna flush it like Mike had recemmended.
While checking oil in the other hubs, I noticed the inside suface of the fill plug was scored up on the hub opposite that I'm working on. I pulled it apart to inspect. It is ok. The ring gear bolts are not original. It must have had a prior failure.
I went fishing with a magnet for chunks on that side, thinking they may have missed them when repairing. I got 1 pretty big chunk and a fair amount of filings.
I'm gonna flush it like Mike had recemmended.
I've been pouring mineral spirits into the axle tube and collecting the solvent in a bucket as it drains from the differential. It seems to be flushing the crap through. I found the inspiration for Don Kings hair style.
Tim I think there may be something wrong with yer plumbing. Not supposed to have stuff like that in yer piss ya know...
DB hydraulics update. so, i did all the magic redneck voodoo plumbing on the remote valve to work the lift.......nope, backs up through the load sensing valve and exits through the lube tube. i figured. closest size plug is 7/16 SAE and almost perfect. i almost dont have to drill it.
no one even knows what that is around here. should have it by thursday from discount hydraulics.
i got two loads gravel the other day, spread the first load down the lane. boy it wouldnt take long to grade that, give her a try. no fukin way, cant regulate fast enough with the plow valve. made a mess. too damn hot any way.
no one even knows what that is around here. should have it by thursday from discount hydraulics.
i got two loads gravel the other day, spread the first load down the lane. boy it wouldnt take long to grade that, give her a try. no fukin way, cant regulate fast enough with the plow valve. made a mess. too damn hot any way.
no, but they do have a weird valve.
success! this will be a tldr.
most DB tractors with the selectamatic valve that have sat any time will have a non functional lift. that valve is a pressure differential with 7 stuck plungers in it. it was meant for draft control when plowing in heavy ground. wildly popular in britan.
the fix, and what i should have done on day one.
most US tractors have a remote valve. what i did was plumb it to the lift cylinder so now its just a single acting cylinder and a simple up-down-hold valve. there is a plug on the rear cylinder cover, -5 ORB, obscure but discount hydraulics has fittings. a close 90 with 5 JIC, a hose 5 on one end 8 on the other, a straight 8, 8 ORB fitting for the valve. the other port on the valve needs dumped into a handy 1" port on the housing. bushings, adapters as needed.
the simple thing i just did.......the steel tube that feeds the lift cylinder from the selectamatic valve has to be plugged. it can be seen when the rear housing of the cylinder is removed, which must be done any way to install the fitting. i used a 7/16x20 ORB plug. no drilling is needed, just a 7/16x20 tap. its already 25/64. now it is simple lift hold drop. the selectamatic valve handle should be bolted fast, but the relief valve will sing and let out the pressure if it is inadvertently moved.
this can be done to any selectamtic DB even though the brits will always poo poo the notion.
for less than 30 bucks these things can be put back in service with a simple hitch valve. they are sitting all over considered junk. most will start right up with a hot battery, the engine is almost bullet proof.
take that brittish prudes. fuck off.
most DB tractors with the selectamatic valve that have sat any time will have a non functional lift. that valve is a pressure differential with 7 stuck plungers in it. it was meant for draft control when plowing in heavy ground. wildly popular in britan.
the fix, and what i should have done on day one.
most US tractors have a remote valve. what i did was plumb it to the lift cylinder so now its just a single acting cylinder and a simple up-down-hold valve. there is a plug on the rear cylinder cover, -5 ORB, obscure but discount hydraulics has fittings. a close 90 with 5 JIC, a hose 5 on one end 8 on the other, a straight 8, 8 ORB fitting for the valve. the other port on the valve needs dumped into a handy 1" port on the housing. bushings, adapters as needed.
the simple thing i just did.......the steel tube that feeds the lift cylinder from the selectamatic valve has to be plugged. it can be seen when the rear housing of the cylinder is removed, which must be done any way to install the fitting. i used a 7/16x20 ORB plug. no drilling is needed, just a 7/16x20 tap. its already 25/64. now it is simple lift hold drop. the selectamatic valve handle should be bolted fast, but the relief valve will sing and let out the pressure if it is inadvertently moved.
this can be done to any selectamtic DB even though the brits will always poo poo the notion.
for less than 30 bucks these things can be put back in service with a simple hitch valve. they are sitting all over considered junk. most will start right up with a hot battery, the engine is almost bullet proof.
take that brittish prudes. fuck off.
i would post it on the DB site but i expect the brits would ban me lol. its funny, the irish and aussies think more like we do.
Steve NW WI
Purveyor of bullshit, mostly.
Glad you got it working Mike. I do think I mentioned bypassing the load/draft control way back at the beginning of this saga.
Most tractors have a version of this, it's not just a DB thing, but the majority of them actually work. It gets more necessary the closer you are to working the tractor to full load, which is why the Brits are so enamored of it, we tend to just buy a bigger machine and use brute force.
I have a fully mounted plow and a standard pull type here, the only time I consider the mounted one better is doing a garden in somewhere where I can't easily turn around. I generally avoid gardens as most gardeners don't like tractor tracks in their yard, or the dead furrow trench a plow leaves.
Most tractors have a version of this, it's not just a DB thing, but the majority of them actually work. It gets more necessary the closer you are to working the tractor to full load, which is why the Brits are so enamored of it, we tend to just buy a bigger machine and use brute force.
I have a fully mounted plow and a standard pull type here, the only time I consider the mounted one better is doing a garden in somewhere where I can't easily turn around. I generally avoid gardens as most gardeners don't like tractor tracks in their yard, or the dead furrow trench a plow leaves.
and your not the only one. its been done before but any time any one starts talking about the how to on any DB group, the brits shut it down.
i have a friend with a 4020 says it sucks for grader work. he uses his old 40 with a simple valve.
i got the selectematic working, it just sucks for manual control.
i always said trail plows do a better job.
Glad to hear you got er dicked Mike.
The Terex wheel loader is slowly making progress. I spent some time working on it today. I blocked up the front axle, filled the rear axle with solvent and ran the driveline up to speed to stir up any metal filings in the differential and them quickly pulled the drain plug. I refilled with clean solvent and did it a few more times. I think most all the filings have been flushed out. I've probably flushed 30 gallons of solvent through the axle. I've been recycling it so probably lost less than a quart through the process.
The parts from Germany arrived on Friday. It was then that I realized I screwed up and didn't order everything I needed. I got the rest of the parts ordered on Monday.
The Terex wheel loader is slowly making progress. I spent some time working on it today. I blocked up the front axle, filled the rear axle with solvent and ran the driveline up to speed to stir up any metal filings in the differential and them quickly pulled the drain plug. I refilled with clean solvent and did it a few more times. I think most all the filings have been flushed out. I've probably flushed 30 gallons of solvent through the axle. I've been recycling it so probably lost less than a quart through the process.
The parts from Germany arrived on Friday. It was then that I realized I screwed up and didn't order everything I needed. I got the rest of the parts ordered on Monday.