Tim’s payloader and generator BS thread

I can replace the bearings by cutting them off and welding new ones on. I figured I spend little extra time on it and change it so the spherical end bearings can be replaced without cutting and welding. I got one of these coming for the rod end, $65. I'll thread the new rod to accept it.
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On the other end, I'm doing a $12 spherical bearing in a mounting "tang".
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In the future when the ends wear out, it will be a quick easy cheap fix.
Ten dollah good
 
Nearing completion of this project. Not sure that induction hardened rod was a good idea. I could cut only a few thou per pass on the lathe. The chrome is HRC70. The rod underneath is HRC50. By comparison, the snap ring in HRC40. I tried to clean up the end of the threaded rod with a file, it just skates across the rod. I made a toolholder to cut the internal groove. There is a 3/16" ball from a ball bearing under the insert. The insert has an angled groove that the ball fits. the angle directs the insert into the holder. The set screw pushed on the edge of the top groove and forces it back against the ball too.
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This engine was rebuilt by an Amish guy over 20 years ago and had sat in the warehouse since. A customer in southern MN has a Michigan wheel loader with a 12" crack in the block. I'm selling this engine for $1500 less than I paid. I just want it out of my shop. I pressure fed 2 gallons on oil into it, spun it over with the injectors out until it had oil pressure. I rotated the engine upside down to lube the cylinders. I peeked into the cylinders, no rust. Fresh injectors. I think it will be ok.
I spent a littke extra time cleaning up the customers parts before transfering them. Resized_20230313_153100.jpegResized_20230313_153030.jpeg